Four wheeling naturally involves an orderly process. Driving through difficult terrain far from home is demanding on drivers and their vehicles. Just like driving on roads, you need a lot of hours behind the wheel to become adept off road. Many of my articles are dedicated to reviewing various aspects of four wheeling. This column reviews several more important fundamentals that can be helpful if you are just starting four wheeling.
1. Shift into and out of 4L (4 low) properly. It's easy to forget this step while maneuvering through rough terrain. It's quite simple, but you can mess up your transfer box pretty good if you don't follow this suggestion. Bring your vehicle to a stop (or near stop), and shift the transmission into neutral. Then you can safely and easily shift into 4L. Shift the transmission back into drive, and continue on. Repeat when you need to shift out of 4L. Most of the newer vehicles with electronic selection of 4 low will let you turn the knob but it will not be in 4 low unless you start with the transmission in neutral. If you overlook the flashing light on the dash and press on thinking you are in 4L, you will likely get stuck. Those vehicles with levers will grind or be extremely difficult if not impossible to engage into 4L. Unless you have a classic "collectors" vintage 4-wheel drive vehicle with the older all-gear transfer case, I would take it back to the dealer if you cannot shift into 4 low from a dead stop. If you get stuck while driving in 4 high (like sand dunes), many times you can drive out by shifting to 4 low. Then you have enough power to turn the wheels. You are stuck, so moving the vehicle as a requirement to shift into 4 low is not an option! Electronic shifting transfer cases may need a bit of movement to engage. Hopefully on your vehicle that requires just that slight bump you get to shift from neutral to drive. One side note: You can shift from 2 wheel drive (2H) to 4 High and back again "on the fly." This means you can shift while driving at any speed. I have done it at 70 MPH with no ill effect. Check your owner's manual for their suggestion on the top speed - most likely 50 MPH. Vehicles are getting more and more complicated and there may be a reason to limit the top speed for shifting on the fly. 2. Know your vehicle's lowest points of clearance. As you approach obstacles, paint a mental picture of your vehicle's low points. Use that knowledge to navigate around (or over) the obstacles without getting hung up. We recommend picking the 3 lowest spots on the front axle and the 3 lowest on the rear axle. You can do more but it becomes difficult to process it all in real time. Whether you have solid axles front and rear or independent front suspension makes a difference. On a solid axle, the lowest point is the bottom of the differential. That's usually only 9 inches off the ground. The front differential also gives you a low point, but it's not in line with the rear differential. Note which side it is on. The other low points (front and back) are the shock mounts or control arms that hold the axle into position. In an independent front suspension vehicle, the back is the same as with a solid axle. However, up-front the lowest points are just inside each wheel. The center of the vehicle is pretty flat and doesn't present any low points. But don't line up the center in front with a 12" rock. The rear diff with not clear it.
3. Where your front wheels are. Most drivers have a pretty good idea of where the left tire is, but are usually off a foot or two regarding the right. It is critical while off-road that you can place your tires exactly on the obstacle as you planned even when the obstacle disappears into your blind spot.
Have someone place their hand on the front face of the right front tire and lift it straight up until you can see where that point is on the hood. It can be helpful, too, if they locate the center line of the tire and show you the point on the hood that is the intersection of the centerline and front face of the tire. Remember the spots. If you are really having difficulty remembering the spot, we can put "training wheels" on (so to speak). Get a small telescoping magnet from the auto store and put the magnet on the spot with the handle straight up. Then practice, practice, practice until you can place the front tires exactly where you want - almost every time. 4. Know your blind spots. Speaking of blind spots, the most important one is out front. On average, the front blind spot extends about 17 feet from the face of your left front tire. (Add 12 to 18 inches more distance for the right tire.) You can reduce this distance as much as 3 to 5 feet by doing what I call "active" looking. That means leaning forward as much as possible and stretching your neck out. Three factors influence the size of the blind spot: how tall you are, how your seat is positioned, and the design of your vehicle. You cannot do much about the vehicle design or your height, but you can change the seat. Lift it up and bring the seat back forward. If your seat does not have adjustments for height, have the seat mounts modified to permanently raise it a few inches. Remember that as you approach a rock, it will eventually enter your blind spot. Now you see (no pun intended) why it's useful to know where your tires are, as well as your low points. 5. Throttle control while in 4 low. The first time in low range, a driver's instinct is to push the accelerator like you normally do. Low range has a lot of torque and power so this causes the vehicle to leap forward. The driver backs off on the gas. Due to the low gearing, the vehicle slows down immediately - too slow now. The driver hits the gas again, with the result being a jerky motion. For 4 wheel drive, you need a nice, smooth throttle. Remind yourself that when in 4L, apply lighter pressure to the accelerator. Over time you'll educate your right leg. For more on the effect of a smooth throttle (or lack of), see the article on "Cobblestone" . 6. Fuel usage. Because your mileage drops while off road, especially in 4L, it's good to calculate your off-road fuel mileage. You'll find that mileage drops anywhere from 2 to 5 mpg while off-road. Of course, that affects your range based on the fuel in your vehicle's tank. But remember you also bring along a spare fuel can. (You do, don't you?!) Assume you bring a 5 gal gas can. At 10 mpg, that gas will get you 50 miles. At 15 mpg, you'll go for 75 miles, and so forth. Compute Off-Road Mileage: Fuel up as close to the trail head as possible. Gas up again afterward, and calculate your fuel mileage. Your off-road driving involved a combination of 4L and 4H, but at least you'll have a reasonable average to work with later. Sounds to me like a legitimate reason for a day of 4-wheeling. "Dear, I am going 4-wheeling. Tom says I have to compute my off-road mileage. I don't want to risk your and the kids' safety by running out of gas." 7. Rehearse your contingency steps. Many obstacles require you to get out of the vehicle and recon (look at / walk) the terrain. That is how you avoid falling off a cliff you can't see from behind the wheel. It gives you more time to plan the line you want to take and asses the risks. Add to that planning what steps you will take if results on the ground do not go as planned. If you plant it in your mind in advance the specific skills you will use on this obstacle, you can react quickly. My favorite contingency is - stop, back out (if you can) and recon again. Another example: You are looking down a steep, off camber, rutted slope. It appears to have good traction, but you're concerned that your wheels might slide. If so, you'd turn sideways and roll over. If you still feel the risk is not high enough to turn around, your contingency plan might be: If the wheels start to slide, I am going to let up on the foot brake pressure. If the wheels are still sliding, I'll power up enough to gain control and take any lumps from hitting the bottom too fast. At first glance, these tips may appear daunting. You probably wonder how you'll remember it all, especially the vehicle's low points. Over time these will become second nature. As you drive a trail, your brain will work through the various processes and steps, and you will automatically perform these steps. The result will be a more enjoyable off-road experience.
-------------------------------------------------
Thanksgiving has always been one of my favorite holidays. The time off gives me a chance to reflect on family, friends, guests, and clients. Among the many things I am thankful for is a successful year for Badlands Off-Road Adventures. Thank you for being a loyal client and faithful member of the off-road nation. May you have many more happy wheeling days ahead. All the best this Thanksgiving to you and your family.
I hope to see you on the trails!
Tom Severin, President
Badlands Off Road Adventures, Inc. 4-Wheel Drive School 310-613-5473 http://www.4x4training.com Make it Fun. Keep it Safe. |
Showing posts with label Badlands Off Road Adventures. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Badlands Off Road Adventures. Show all posts
Wednesday, November 18, 2015
Things to Know About Your Vehicle - Special from Badlands Off Road Adventures
Sunday, November 1, 2015
From Badlands Off-Road Adventures: Beware Flash Floods
Four wheelers who drive throughout the desert southwest are quite accustomed to tough conditions. Not just terrain, either: The heat can be brutal. Encountering a flash flood is probably the last thing on your mind. But it can happen, and the results can be tragic. A deadly flood in Zion National Park, Utah, last month is a sobering reminder of that hazard. The flood, which tore through Keyhole Canyon, claimed the lives of seven. Granted, those individuals were on foot, but flash floods affect vehicles, too, even 4,000 – 5,000 lb. four wheelers. Forecasters are saying that the El Niño phenomenon will be particularly strong this winter. That heightens the chance for moisture throughout the West, including the desert areas. You're probably thinking: "A flash flood in a desert? C'mon, Tom!" Yes, they are possible, in the right areas. But also in mountainous terrain, which should be apparent. Four wheelers, accustomed to driving in tough conditions, figure they can just plow through that water. Not a chance. Don't even think about it. Water only two feet deep can float your vehicle. Your wheels may still be touching, but you won't have good traction. Be careful while hiking, too. Six inches of fast-moving water can knock you off your feet. If you can't wade through, don't try driving through. Remember this maxim:
Turn Around. Don't Drown.
Of course, flash floods aren't confined to remote areas. Urban communities across the country suffer floods frequently. One big difference off road is that the threat isn't always very apparent.
You could be camping, driving or hiking on a bright sunny day. Unbeknownst to you, a storm is raging in the mountains several miles away. Eventually a trickle shows up on that nearby wash. You think nothing of it. Minutes later, the water is cascading down, getting deeper by the moment. You may have only minutes to find an escape route. This is why I always recommend moving out when water appears in a wash or a nearby stream. That stream could gain new life and momentum. Soon, a flood is roaring down on you. As with any trip, preparation helps you avoid disaster. Check the weather forecast before and, if possible, during your trip. If the park has a website and Facebook page, monitor those, too. Zion National Park posts weather advisories on its Facebook page when appropriate. Pack a weather radio and, if you're a ham radio operator, your radio gear. Cell phones are OK, but coverage is spotty in the wild. Consider buying a satellite phone. You can learn more about communications options in Communications equipment is critical for off-road driving. It's also good to know the various warnings that the weather service issues, including flood advisory and flash flood warning. Read more about those here . If near a wash, stream or river, always take a moment to plan an escape route. Don't wait for disaster to strike. You won't be able to think clearly, and you may end up downstream. If a trickle of water appears, move to higher ground. That might mean simply climbing up on a rock or hiking away. Leave your vehicle and your gear. Those can be replaced. Rapidly changing weather is nothing new to seasoned 4WD enthusiasts. Flash flooding in normally dry areas may be hard to imagine, but it does happen. Don't try to fight it. Odds are the water will win, which means you'll lose.
I hope to see you on the trails!
Tom Severin, President Badlands Off Road Adventures, Inc. 4-Wheel Drive School 310-613-5473 http://www.4x4training.com Make it Fun. Keep it Safe. |
Wednesday, September 23, 2015
Guest Post: Do you Know Jack? From Badlands Off Road Adventures
A jack is one of those pieces of equipment that is just plain essential for four wheeling. The stock jack supplied by the manufacturer isn't going to help off road: terrain is rarely level and never smooth. You have three styles to choose from: Hi-Lift, X-Jack and bottle jack. The first step in any situation is to make sure the vehicle cannot move. Sometimes the emergency brake isn't enough, because you might be lifting that wheel. You might have to chock the opposite side. Seldom is the terrain flat and level. Run the winch out to a tree or stretch a strap tightly from the vehicle to be jacked. Always be careful when jacking. Hi-Lift Jack
The Hi-Lift is very versatile but has a lot of safety risks. It is versatile in the sense you can lift (jack) with it, you can "pole vault" with it, and you can use it as a "poor man's" winch in a pinch.
Lift as close as possible to the tire you want to get off the ground. If you lift in the middle of either bumper, the vehicle is likely to tip in one direction. Vehicles today don't have notches in the frame for a jack. So latch onto the bumper as close to the affected wheel. The base on a Hi-Lift jack is pretty small. That makes it challenging to lift on uneven surfaces. You may want to purchase a safety kit. That includes an extra-wide base and support cables. "Pole vaulting" involves shifting a vehicle sideways while jacked up. Let's say you're stuck and just need to move a foot or two to one side. Set the jack near the middle of the opposite side, at a slight angle. Once both wheels on the near (jack) side are off the ground, the vehicle will fall away. Repeat as needed to move away from the obstruction. With a chain on one end and a tree strap on the other, the Hi-Lift can be used as "poor man's" winch by laying it sideways. The chain allows you to adjust the distance from the vehicle to your anchor point. Since you can only move the stuck vehicle about 3 feet at a time the chain makes it easier to reset the jack each time. By looping the chain around the "nose" of the jack, you can shorten it with a grab hook. Besides all the hard work, the difficulty is keeping the vehicle in place every time you reset for a new bite. Hi-Lift recovery kit has all the gear your need to solve this problem. You need to be careful with Hi-Lifts. Use only on solid ground and when the main part is straight up and down. If you must jack on sand or soft soil, place a piece of plywood or other board under the foot. Make sure the handle is straight up when at rest. When lowering a vehicle, place a hand at the top of the center piece and gently coax the lever up and down. Keep your fingers on top and clear; if the lever takes off, you'll get "hammer thumb." Keep your head out of the way, as well for the same reason. A basic Hi-lift runs about $70. They're rated to nearly 5000 lbs. for the first 4 feet. With safety accessories, you're looking at about $230. Though there are safety issues, the Hi-Lift jack is an extremely versatile and useful tool. Don't leave home without one in the group. X-Jack
The X-jack is really helpful in sand and snow. You slide it under the vehicle, and use exhaust to inflate the bag and raise the vehicle.
Watch for sharp edges of the body or frame, and keep the bag away from the exhaust pipe. It's a good idea to place padding on top of the bag. (See Figure N.) The X-Jack comes with a pad, but I suggest grabbing one or two floor mats for additional padding. Make sure there are no kinks in the hose as you're playing it out. The X-Jack works best with two people: one to hold the funnel tightly on the exhaust pipe and the other to keep the bag in position. If working alone, use a compressor. The bag also has a valve stem to attach a compressor so you can tap into that while positioning the bag. Be careful if lifting on sand. We tend to use high RPM in the sand. This causes a hotter exhaust, and it's easier to melt the hose. If you have a compressor, use that instead. You may find that the bag quits inflating the last foot or so. It is necessary to run the engine at a higher RPM (than idle) to fully inflate the bag. Another reason to have help. A drawback is that the kit takes up a fair amount of space in the vehicle. Consider tying it on the outside or roof if space is a premium. Bottle jack
Compact and more stable than the Hi-Lift, a bottle jack allows you to lift just an axle as opposed to an entire side of the vehicle. A big disadvantage is that you don't always have sufficient clearance under the vehicle (use the Hi-lift or X- jack).
The second downside is that it won't always lift high enough for what you need. The post usually extends only about 5- 6 inches. That's why you may want to buy extensions. If you don't care to do that, try a block of wood. Bottle jacks come in a variety of sizes. A 3-ton model is sufficient for most 4WD use. For larger vehicles like a Sportsmobiles, a 5-ton jack is better. I've seen good results with electric models. A standard bottle jack runs $40 to $60 at auto parts stores. Regardless of the style of jack you have, you must always use it safely. Before jacking, make sure that the vehicle cannot move. Use the jack properly, and—in the case of the Hi-Lift—keep your hands and fingers (and even body) out of harm's way. Be patient. Sometimes you need to think through the lift process to avoid serious injury. Learn the proper way to use the jack, and practice back home to become familiar with it. Finally, if you must work under the vehicle while it's raised, use your spare tire or other sturdy object as a safety jack. I recommend you carry at least 2 of the above! ########################## Related Articles from Badlands Off-road Adventures
|
Wednesday, April 15, 2015
Trail Food for the Non-Cook, By Badlands Off-Road Adventures
Let's say you love the outdoors, and yearn for a weekend of four wheeling. But you can't cook or don't care to. It's just not your bag. Should you stay home? Of course not! You can still hit the trails – you just need to plan accordingly.
You're in luck. Chef Severin has put together a nifty game plan for your next 4WD weekend. It involves selecting the right items and mapping out a menu to make your decision making so much easier. I've done all that for you. Fortunately, much of what you need is inexpensive and convenient. Because many items are packaged or premade, you don't need to be Chef Cordon Bleu to eat pretty well. As you long as you can boil water, cook over a fire (or camping stove), and you own a cooler or fridge, you'll survive! It's quite simple, actually. That's the beauty of it. You can enjoy three meals a day without a lot of fuss and mess. This outline shows you how. Afterward, I provide additional details of what to buy and where. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Outline of a Simple MenuFriday
Saturday
Sunday
Monday
See how simple this is? Nothing fancy here, and just a few food items each meal. All items are prepackage or premade. You simply grab and go. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Let's look at a few of these food items in greater detail.
Lettuce: Either a head of iceberg or package of Romaine. Cut the iceberg in quarters; each one, to be topped with salad dressing, is your salad. Romaine usually comes with three stalks per package. Each stalk can make at least two salads. You literally just pour on the dressing. Don't forget a small bottle of salad dressing.
In either case, don't bother chopping the lettuce in advance. You'll do that with knife and fork during dinner. (Remember: one objective is to minimize the preparation.) Sandwiches: For minimal effort, hop into a Subway, gas station or a supermarket. Look at what they have, and grab what looks good and is relatively inexpensive. Don't care for a sandwich or sub? Other possibilities include Lunchables, Hot Pockets and frozen burritos. Before leaving camp each morning, double wrap the Hot Pockets and burritos in tin foil. Stick then in a secure position above the manifold on the engine. By lunch time you will have a hot with melted cheese meal. Don't' worry about nutrition. You just need cheap body fuel for the weekend.
If you prefer to make your own sandwiches, buy some bread (cheapest you can find), cold meat(s) and cheese. Avoid applying any sauces in advance; you'll do that in camp. Bring along bottles of sauce or grab some of those foil packets from the fast food joint. Lettuce pulls double duty here.
By the way, a loaf of bread (or package of hamburger buns) can be used for sandwiches, brats and wienies. No need to buy separate packages. Beverages: This is a personal call, but I've found that coffee, cola (Coke for me) and beer or Tequila are all I need for a weekend. If you can't make coffee or get your buddy to make it, buy Starbuck's coffee in a bottle. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
All your food can be purchased on Friday. It will keep throughout the weekend.
Snacking: Whether on the drive to and from the trail or while on the trails themselves, you're bound to get the munchies at times. Convenient snack foods (which also are good for you) include plums, apples, cucumbers (mini ones in a package), snap peas, and bananas. Cukes, by the way, can also be added to your salads. Another good snack is Mother's Oatmeal cookies, one of my favorites. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Mixed nuts are good, though they can be a little salty. Avoid shelled nuts (peanuts and pistachios, for example). Too often these become campfire food, and the grounds become littered with shells.
You should plan on contributing to happy hour as well. Here, again, the choices are easy and convenient. Corn chips, salsa and cheese dip are a natural. Other possibilities include wheat chips and cheese (Triscuit, Wheat Thins), beef jerky and even licorice. Speaking of happy hour, a common effect after a good happy hour is lack of enthusiasm to prepare a full meal. Could be that everyone filled up on snacks or just tanked on beer. This is yet another reason to stock up easy-to-prepare food. A quick bite is possible if the hunger pains strike. (Of course, you can always bribe a buddy to cook for you. Make sure you have enough extra beer or booze with you.) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
As you see, preparing for your meals doesn't have to be a nerve-wracking affair. Use these suggestions as a guide when you next visit the store. You'll quickly fill up your cart and be prepared for your next 4WD outing.
| ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
##########################
Related Articles from Badlands Off-road Adventures | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Did you miss the previous article? | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Friday, April 11, 2014
[From Badlands Off-Road Adventures] Carry Three Ways to Make Fire
Carry Three Ways to Make Fire
(Use this link for a web version: Carry Three Ways to Make Fire ) | |||||||
Four wheelers know it's critical to be prepared when they go off road. One area that sometimes gets taken for granted is the ability to start fires. We just assume that a book of matches or lighter will be handy when needed. That's usually the case while in camp or in the vehicle. But what happens when you're alone in the wild? Could you start a fire if you had to? Hikers, campers and just plain vacationers occasionally get lost and find themselves in a dangerous situation. It may never happen to you, but it's always good to be prepared. I suggest you always carry three forms of fire-starting methods on you along with some tinder, and practice with them throughout the year. Why three methods? Redundancy, as NASA will tell you, is good. In fact, it could save your life. By carrying three forms of fire-starting material, you essentially eliminate the possibility of not being able to at least create a spark. (You still need tinder and a supply of fuel.)
 As important as the uses of fire listed above are perhaps the most important use is for comfort and companionship. Humans have been staring into a fire forever during long nights. A fire helps maintain a positive mental attitude and chase away boredom, loneliness and fear. A fire could literally save your life. Granted, only a tiny number of people get caught in survival situations each year. But those incidents can occur in many areas and in any climate.
There are several methods to start a fire that we all can master without resorting to primitive methods like a bow drill. They include:
It's also a good idea to carry tinder. Then you don't need to go scrounging for tinder, which naturally will be damp during wet weather. There are numerous commercially available products. Many are well engineered to catch a spark and fire up quickly. A small package of 5 or 6 is only a few dollars. If they are compressed, pull one end apart or use a rock to break up the fibers. You might even be able to reuse one if you can transfer the fire to your kindling and extinguish it before it is all gone.
My favorite homemade tinder is cotton balls smeared with a dab of Vaseline. These catch a spark in most conditions, and the Vaseline provides a sustained burn which is needed to start larger tinder. Don't overdo the Vaseline. Some cotton fibers are needed to catch the spark.
Make up about a half dozen cotton balls and pack them in a little container. 35 mm film canisters are perfect, if you can find any. You can also use pill or aspirin bottles; many outdoor stores sells small plastic bottles that work as well. Other ways to start a fire include: - Steel wool and a battery. Fine grade (00) steel wool and a D cell work nicely. If you don't have a D cell, try two AA batteries. You'll drain the battery rather quickly. Assume one shot with a AA battery and maybe a couple tries on a D cell. - Magnifying glass - Easy to slip into a pocket. You need sun, however. Whatever methods you choose, make sure you practice them several times a year and under various conditions. Don't wait until disaster hits. Between your emotional state and the weather conditions, you'll have a heck of a time making it work. Carry your three fire starters and tinder in your pocket. While you may have extras in your vehicle, backpack and tent, you need to keep these tools on your person. You could be separated from your vehicle, backpack and even fanny pack. Tuck your materials in a pants or shirt pocket each time you step outdoors. Remember to replenish any supplies you use. Also, add a category on your preparation checklist http://www.4x4training.com/Articles/Camping/Checklist.html for "pocket fire starter." That will remind you to add this important outdoor gear each time. Going forward, you will always be prepared to start a fire if need be.
# # # #
| |||||||
| I hope to see you on the trails! Tom Severin, President Badlands Off Road Adventures, Inc. 4-Wheel Drive School 310-374-8047 http://www.4x4training.com Make it Fun. Keep it Safe. ##### If you find this information valuable, please pass it on to a friend. You can forward them the email. If you received a forwarded copy of this newsletter and would like to subscribe for yourself, go to: www.4x4training.com/contacts.html and follow the instructions to join our mail list. Want To Use This Article In Your Magazine, E-Zine, Club Newsletter Or Web Site? You are welcome to use it anytime, just be sure to include the following author/copyright information: Tom Severin, 4x4 Coach, teaches 4WD owners how to confidently and safely use their vehicles to the fullest extent in difficult terrain and adverse driving conditions. Visit www.4x4training.com to develop or improve your driving skill. Copyright 2014, Badlands Off-Road Adventures, Inc. | |||||||
Friday, October 19, 2012
A Primer on Winching, Part 1 [From Badlands Off-Road Adventures]
Rigging a "floating" pulley. 2nd parachute will be added next.
If you spend any significant amount of time in difficult terrain, you're bound to encounter a recovery situation at some point. It could be either your vehicle or someone else's. And a winch may be the proper tool at that time. This is a good time to review recovery, and winching in particular.
The steps that follow are taken from my nifty and exclusive Winch Recovery Bandana. Keep in mind that these tips and the information provided on the bandana are not a substitute for proper training, sound judgment and quality equipment.
Every winching operation should start with a plan in your mind as to how you'll rig it up. Winching is a risky procedure; proceed very slowly and methodically. You're dealing with material and parts that are subject to a tremendous amount of force. A mistake can be fatal, as I pointed out in "Don't Lose Your Head While Recovering a Vehicle." Take your time.
Winching begins with a walkthrough. You want to inspect all parts and lines while the system is under light tension. If everything looks good, you can power up and proceed with the recovery.
The vehicle doing the recovery is kept in neutral with the emergency brake on. Having the transmission in neutral protects the parking pawl. Chock the front wheels if you can. (Some people even anchor this vehicle to a tree or other vehicle.) You do not want that vehicle to move. Start the winch slowly so you take up some of the slack.
Lines that are slack while on ground take on a new dimension when under tension. You need to check them before proceeding with the recovery. The lines may be binding or twisting. They could be rubbing against an edge on the bumper or other body part. In some cases the lines end up right over a taillight. Under load those lines will smash the cover and bulb.
Check all connections. Start at one end of the line and work your way through. Are any connections about to be pulled through the pulley? Adjust as needed.
Keep the engine running, or its battery will be drained dry. Even though the emergency brake is on, someone should be in the recovery vehicle applying pressure to the brakes. Now review the winch cable as it is leaving the winch. Does it leave at greater than a 15 degree angle? If so, it will start to pile up on one side of the drum, causing the cable to snag and possibly break that side of the winch. If you see the cable starting to pile up, stop winching. Disconnect the cable, pull it out manually, and wind it up neatly. Always start with your cable properly wound on the drum. Then, consider moving the recovery vehicle or pulley to decrease the angle of pull.
When you winch at greater than a 15 degree angle, there's a greater chance of the cable rubbing or getting caught on the bumper of the recovery vehicle. There may be times when you have no choice but to winch at a severe angle. Just watch the cable closely.
As you're paying out the cable, remember the Rule of 5: Keep at least five turns of cable on the drum at all times (eight turns for synthetic cable, because it's slippery). If you don't keep a minimum amount, the tremendous force of recovery will pull the rest of the cable right off the drum.
If you have a large blanket, toss it over the pulley. (See image. ) Called a parachute by 4-wheelers, this blanket will absorb some of the energy should the cable snap.
Keep an eye on the parachute during winching. It has a tendency to ride up the cable. You don't need that jamming into the pulley or winch. Stop the winching if necessary to move the blanket.
Position spotters to watch the lines and pulley. (They should off to the sides of the vehicles. No one should be in the path of the lines.) Winch slowly, and pay particular attention to portions of cables nearest the vehicles. You're watching for any binding, rubbing and twisting. Make sure, also, that the vehicle being recovered is behaving properly. You may need to stop the winching and adjust the whole arrangement.
As I mentioned at the beginning, this is just part of the entire winching process. Next month we'll review the corresponding steps, which take more of a strategic view.
Until then, good winching!
Related Articles from Badlands Off-road Adventures
I hope to see you on the trails!
Tom Severin, President
Badlands Off Road Adventures, Inc.
4-Wheel Drive School
310-374-8047
http://www.4x4training.com
Make it Fun. Keep it Safe.
#####
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)